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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.